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Poker Lesson

 
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Was the lesson usefull?
Yes, Thank You
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 50%  [ 5 ]
No
20%
 20%  [ 2 ]
It was to difficult
30%
 30%  [ 3 ]
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Deadnitro
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 11:44 am    Post subject: Poker Lesson Reply with quote

Hello,

In this topic I try to learn peopl how to play some good poker
First off all you got to know the hand ranks
Here you see the hand ranks, I will explain them.



-The lowest you can have is No Pair. You don't have anything. Nothing the same or nothing in one row or nothing of the same colour.
-Second lowest you can have is 1 pair. Now you have two of the same numbers/pictures(jack, queen, king, ace) You can have 1 card in your hand or 2 on the table.

-After 1 pair, comes 2 pair. Now you have two times 2 cards. You can have 2 cards in your hand and 2 cards on the table what makes you 2 pair. Also you can have 1 card in your hand 2 the same cards on the table and the card you have in your hand on the table this makes 2 pair either. The last option is: On the table lies two diffrent cards 2 times.

- The next hand is: Three of a kind. Here you have 3 cards of the same number/picture(jack, queen, king, ace) but of diffrent symbols. You can have Three of a kind with two of the same cards in your hand and one on the table. You can have Three of a kind with 2 cards on the table and one in your hand. The last option is 3 cards on the table.

-Straight: By a straight you have 5 cards in one row. You can have 2 cards in your hand and 3 cards on the table what makes the straight. You also can have 1 card in your hand and 4 cards on the table what makes you the straight. The last option is if there 5 cards in one row on the table. This is a straight.

-Flush. After a straight comes the flush. By a flush you have 5 cards of the same symbol. You can have a flush by 2 cards of the same symbol in your hand and 3 cards of the same symbol on the table. You can have a flush by one card in your hand and 4 cards on the table of the same symbol as in your hand. The last option is 5 cards on the table of the same symbol.

-Full House. If you have a full house, you have 3 cards with the same number/picture(jack, queen, king, ace) and 2 cards with the same number/picture(jack, queen, king, ace) You can have a full house with the following options. 2 diffrent cards in your hand and 2 cards of the same number/picture on the table and 1 other card wich the same as in your hand. 2 of the same cards in your hand. This called a pocket. And 1 cards of what you have in your hand and 2 diffrent cards wich are the same. Or there is on the table 3 cards of the same number/picture and 2 other cards of the same number/picture

-Four of a kind. By a four of a kind you have 4 cards of the same number/picture. You can have a four of a kind with a pocket in your hand (2 of the same number/picture) and 2 of the same number/picture on the table. You can have one by 1 card in your hand and 3 of the same cards wich you have in your hand on the table. And the last option is: On the table you will see 4 of the same cards.

-Straight flush. When you have a straight flush you 've got 5 cards in a row and of the same symbol. You can have a straight flush with 2 cards of the same symbol in your hand and 3 cards of the same symbol on the table in one row. You also can have straight flush with 1 card in your hand and 4 cards on the table with the same symbol and in one row. The last option is when there are 5 cards in a row and of the symbol on the table.

-Royal flush. This is the highest and last hand rank. When you have a royal flush, You have 5 cards in a row and of the same symbol. You will think: Huh this is the same as a straight flush. But a royal flush is from 10 to Ace from the same symbol.

This were the hand ranks. I hope I did explain good enough.

Now we know the hand ranks were going to learn wich hands you can call/raise/fold.

First of all if you have a pocket (2 of the same numbers/pictures in your hand) you always have to call for the normal blind. But if you have a pocket 9 higher you have to call every raise, even when you have to go all in. With the pockets under 9 you only have to call the big blind and a little raise. So if you got a pocket 9/Ten/Jack/Queen/King/Ace you always got to raise. If you want to know how much to raise, Most of time I raise 5 times the big blind because if you raise more then 5 times they fold most times, and most of time they call a 5 times big blind raise just like a 4 times big blind raise or lower. But if you get raised again You always have to call no matter how much. There have been a test where they tested if a pocket hand wins or lose more that Ace King hand. The results have been that 70% of the hands were won by the pocket hand. So thats the reason why im saying you always have to call a pocket hand. Now you know what to do with pockets but there are more hand then pockets.

The next subject where im going to talk about is the other hands you have to call/raise. Let's start with Ace hands. If you have Ace King/Queen/Jack/Ten you got to raise. Just like the pockets I would raise 5 times the big blind. If you get re-raised to go all in I would call with them if you can affort it (if you have enough money left to rebuy if you lose). But if it's your last money or if you lose and you don't have a lot money left, I would fold to play save. If you have Ace 9/8/7 you always got to call the big blind and little raises to 4 times the big blind and if you can affort it to maximum of 5 times the big blind. If you have Ace 6/5/4/3/2 I would call the big blind and maximum raises of 3 times the big blind because the kickers aren't high. Kicker is 2nd highest card in your hand. This were the Ace hands

Now im going to explain about King/Queen/Jack hands. The only hands you got to call with king are King Ace/King/Queen/Jack/Ten. If someone raise you, you got to call to 4 times the big blind. Unless you have King King/Ace (See earlier explanation) Other King hands you've got to fold because the kicker isn't high enough. You can call King nine if you're the last one who's allowed to bet on the table and if no one raised. Then you got an impression that no one has a good hand so King nine is good enough then. Other King hans you always have to fold on a 6/7/8/9/10 mans table. When you're playing on a 2/3/4/5 mans table you always have to call a King hand because there are less people who can have a better hand then you.
Queen hands are the same as king hands (see king hands for explanation) But there is one diffrent between king hands and queen hands. If you got Queen Nine you never got to call even when you're the last on the table who's allowed to bet.
Jack and Ten hands are the same as Queen hands. See Queen hands explanation)

This are not the only hands you can play with. You can play with 10 9/8, 9 8/7 hands if they are suited (suited is 2 cards with the same symbol) The reason why you can call this hands is because you've got a straight and flush chance. But now you will think why you can't call the other suited hands. Thats because your highest card in your hand is not high enough to call. There is a high chance thats someone on the table with a higher highest cards then you. This hands I just told, You only got to call for the big blind. Only if you're on a high stack(much money on the table) and have enough money left if you lose, you can call a raise of 2 times the big blind.

all other hands I would fold no matter on wich stack you're or if you got a lot money left.

Now we are going to calculate how much chance you have to win in some actions

Lets say on the flop comes 9 8 2 and you have in your hand 10 Jack. Then you need a 7 or Queen to make a straight. There are four 7's and four Queens in a deck so you do four X two(for the 7 and Queen) thats 8. There are 52 cards in a deck. Next thing to do is 8 : 52 X 100=15% chance for the 7 or queen to come for the turn but you also have the flop so x2 is 30% but 15% chance for the next card. Now we have calculated how much chance you had for the card you needed. So the technique is: Card you need > how much are in the deck > That number divided ( through 52 (cards in deck) x 100. Now you can calculated how much chance you have for everything except flush. To calculate a flush you got to do 13 (this is how much of one symbol in 1 deck) - Cards you already have of the same symbol> that number divided ( through 52 (cards in deck) x 100 = how much chance in % you have for the next card to come.

This was my poker lesson. I hope it was usefull and if you still have some questions just post here and I wil answer. Thank You for reading my lesoon
if you need more screen shots just ask and I will post some

Regards

Deadnitro
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Deadnitro
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2007 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oops I miss one screenshot. This screenshot has to be for I explain the hand ranks



sorry for the mistake

If you have questions just ask me

Regards

Deadnitro
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Ascorbate
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 9:50 am    Post subject: Re: Poker Lesson Reply with quote

Disclaimer: I'm not that good at poker. For real poker advice, consult an expert. (Not a Puzzle Pirates poker expert, mind, but a poker professional.)

I strongly suggest buying Phil Gordon's "Little Green Book of Poker" though other high quality poker books exist. (I just like the book--I'm not getting paid to advertise it.)

That being said, I won over 140k PoE at 2,000-20,000 tables on Sage this week so I'm capable of finding people who are worse than poker than I am.

Overall, the previous post is...well...it's better than what a lot of Puzzle Pirate poker players do. It still has extremely questionable advice at times and a few times it's outright wrong.

Deadnitro wrote:
Hello,

In this topic I try to learn peopl how to play some good poker
First off all you got to know the hand ranks



The first step doesn't even involve cards yet. It's bankroll. If you're playing the 20-200 table, it's not a big issue. A single battle in a good pillage can offset a 200 PoE loss. It's somewhat more important at a 200-2,000 table. At any higher table, a bankroll is ESSENTIAL.

This Thursday, I hit the 2,000-20,000 tables with over 100k on hand. One bad play and one bad beat later, I was down 40k. I still had enough PoE to keep playing and won 51,808 PoE by the time I left the table for a net of 11,808 PoE and I then picked up another 15,600 PoE later that day. If I had started off with only 40k or so, I would not have been able to continue playing after heavy losses, and would have been stuck with a 40k loss until I had scraped up enough money to keep playing instead of winning over 27k later the same day.

Here's my personal minimum bankrolls for each table:

20-200: 200. (At this level, who cares? Even navy wages can offset a loss here.)
200-2000: 6,000. (I want to have a maximum buying and I want to do it 3 times.)
2,000-20,0000: 60k at least (100k is much better.)
20,000-200,000: I won't even consider this table until I have 600k. (That's going to be awhile.)

It is possible to supplement a busted bankroll with your credit card thanks to doubloons. I'm tempted to bash the people who engage in such behavior, but these Friendly Individuals Surely Help the game by giving Three Rings cash and I certainly need to buy doubloons from someone after giving another poker newbie a thrashing.


The second is table selection. Right now, I look for a table that is:

* in my bankroll.
* pot/no limit. Limit poker isn't popular in this game, anyways, but it's completely different game. I won't touch it because I know my pot/no limit strategies won't work.
* has money on the table. For a 2,000-20,000 table I want at least one person with
at least 15k on the table. Ideally, all or almost all of the players will have at least three-fourths of the maxim buy in and few if any players will have 1/4th or less of the maximum buy-in. When I get a good hand, I want to fight for some chips and that's not possible when everyone else has short stacks.
* has a bad poker player or two. These are the people that make poker worth playing.

Deadnitro wrote:

Here you see the hand ranks, I will explain them.


There's a bunch of tie-breaker information missing here and it would take pages to describe it all.. Did I mention that I strongly suggest a book like Phil Gordon's "Little Green Book"?

Deadnitro wrote:

First of all if you have a pocket (2 of the same numbers/pictures in your hand) you always have to call for the normal blind.


That's reasonable.

Deadnitro wrote:

But if you have a pocket 9 higher you have to call every raise, even when you have to go all in.


Oh, good grief, no.

Against a maniac who will call with Ace-trash, yes. Against a good player, you could very easily get into a 99 vs. AA situation here and you'll have an 80%+ chance of losing.

Deadnitro wrote:
here have been a test where they tested if a pocket hand wins or lose more that Ace King hand. The results have been that 70% of the hands were won by the pocket hand.


You are grossly overestimating the power of medium/medium-high pocket pairs. A pocket pair versus two random overcards is usually about a 55% favorite, not a 70% favorite. In the case of QQ vs. AK offsuit, the odds aren't even quite 57% for the pocket pair.

There's some weird exceptions, too: 77 is actually a slight underdog to Jack Ten suited.

Deadnitro wrote:

[A bunch of other stuff.]


This advice is (slightly) better than the playing style of a lot of Puzzle Pirate poker fish but it's still pretty bad. You haven't said anything about how many people are left in the hand, how well you can play post-flop, how to estimate your current table image, how to evaluate other players, etc.

The best way to play each hand varies dramatically based on what the other players are likely to do. In the right situations, raising with garbage to steal the blinds with a bluff is the best play. In other situations, you want to fold AQ. (Heck, in certain weird tournament circumstances where not going broke is far more important than having the most chips, you may want to fold Ace-Ace!)

Deadnitro wrote:

Lets say on the flop comes 9 8 2 and you have in your hand 10 Jack. Then you need a 7 or Queen to make a straight. There are four 7's and four Queens in a deck so you do four X two(for the 7 and Queen) thats 8. There are 52 cards in a deck.


Not when you're holding two of them and theres three more on the table...(at least there better not be 52 cards left in that deck!)

If you want to be able to estimate the odds with reasonable accuracy, use the Rule of Four and the Rule of Two. If you're willing to see two more cards, multiply your outs by four. (E.g., 8 x 4 = ~32%). If there's only one card left or you don't think you'll bet after the turn if you miss, multiply your outs by 2. (E.g., 8 x 2 = 16%) These answers won't be right but they'll be reasonably close.

(See http://casinogambling.about.com/library/weekly/aa050103.htm for a table.)

Oh, one more thing. You forgot to mention suits. If two of the flop cards are suited, you may not have 8 outs. If the flop is 9 of spades, 8 of hearts, and 2 of spades, a seven or queen of spades does you no good if it makes someone else a flush. (If all three cards are suited, someone else might already have the flush and you may not have any outs at all!)

Of course, preflop play is only a minor part of poker and, a fish without knowledge of how to play postflop is going to gutted and filleted more often than not. Proper postflop play can fill books. Did I mention that I strongly suggest buying a book like Phil Gordon's "Little Green Book" yet?
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Nanase
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ Very well written.

If I could advertise another book, it would be Doyle Bruson's Super System/Super System II. Before you purchase the book, I'd recommend having a cursory knowledge of Texas Hold 'em.

One of the main ways in online poker that's vastly different than Brick & Mortar casinos is the total lack of tells to read. What you'll need to be looking harder for is betting patterns. What is this person likely to do postflop after raising? Does he enjoy bluffing a low, rainbow flop? Does he always continue-bet on the flop, regardless of what comes down? Part of it comes down to what's already been said in the post above me, so I won't make myself overly redundant, but knowing your players is incredibly important. There's a few people that I specifically hunt down to sit with if possible, due to their obvious, loose playing style.

Also, remembering that all poker is situational is important. I can't sit here and tell you exactly how to play AQo on every flop; that takes experience, knowing who're you're playing against, and knowing your odds on a certain call/raise/fold.

"If you can't tell who the fish at the table is, it's probably you."
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Ascorbate
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nanase wrote:
^ Very well written.

If I could advertise another book, it would be Doyle Bruson's Super System/Super System II. Before you purchase the book, I'd recommend having a cursory knowledge of Texas Hold 'em.



Both are very good books...however...

* Super System I is, to some degree, obsolete. (E.g., it covers Draw Poker which is nowhere near as popular as it used to be and isn't even playable in Puzzle Pirates.) Both books cover Texas Hold'em (both limit and no-limit) so if one is going to purchase just one of these two books, one should purchase Super System II.

* Doyle Brunson plays high stakes cash games and tournament poker extremely well. However, he readily admits that the style of play he prefers does not work well against very bad players. (He can still beat very bad players, of course. Among other things, he won't bluff against someone who he thinks won't fold a mediocre hand.)

One of the reasons I like Phil Gordon's book is that I think it covers the mathematics better thus making the knowledge in that book easier to apply against crummy players.

Nanase wrote:

There's a few people that I specifically hunt down to sit with if possible, due to their obvious, loose playing style.


Good idea. I should do more of that.
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Nanase
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wasn't trying to tell you that your book was inferior, I just enjoyed reading both books, although I'll admit SSI is a bit old. There's certain books you can certainly purchase that specifically cover No-Limit Texas Hold 'em.

As for the mathematics, the books help, and there's also this site;

www.texasholdem-poker.com

That has a wonderful odds calculator and well written beginner strategies and tips, a forum, and other well written articles for your viewing pleasure. I'm not paid to do this either, I've simply just been using the site as secondary help for the past ~4 years.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nanase wrote:
I wasn't trying to tell you that your book was inferior, I just enjoyed reading both books, although I'll admit SSI is a bit old. There's certain books you can certainly purchase that specifically cover No-Limit Texas Hold 'em.


I wasn't trying tp tell you that your book was inferior, either. Doyle Brunson's still used to playing versus much better opponents than what you see on a Puzzle Pirates table.

Super System II is a superior book, but it's better for those who are looking to play cash or tournament games, particularly HORSE, SHOE or other multi-poker-game tables/tournaments.

All that being said, it is possible to make money playing hyper-aggressive Brunson-style Hold'em at Puzzle Pirates from time to time. Winning enough pots with killer hands may scare the other players for awhile; if they're scared enough, bluffs and semi-bluffs actually work.

Unfortunately, they don't scare long. Super/System II has lots of great advice but it's rather dangerous to apply a good deal of it of it versus very bad players.
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maggiebones
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nanase wrote:

There's a few people that I specifically hunt down to sit with if possible, due to their obvious, loose playing style.


now I know who took all my poe when I started playing this game. Laughing Laughing

I'm so glad that I have gotten MUCH better.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2007 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

maggiebones wrote:
Nanase wrote:

There's a few people that I specifically hunt down to sit with if possible, due to their obvious, loose playing style.


now I know who took all my poe when I started playing this game. Laughing Laughing

I'm so glad that I have gotten MUCH better.


Don't worry, I'm sure Nanase did something warm and fuzzy with your- I mean her- money. Wink
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